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"Surf or Stay - How 9/11 Changed How We Do It" Words by: Dawn K Lastovica

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September 11th changed how we do it on a global level. Everyone's local breaks were a little more quiet and a lot kinder. Everyone truly let the pettiness, in and out of the water, go and just enjoyed. It made everyone appreciate everything more. Some stayed home a little more, others went out and caught a few more waves and more went out and found more time to do the things they love. Remembering those tragic days, one wonders how much we have really changed. It was already hard enough but now with so much deep emotion, we all grapple with that life long question of should I stay or should I go? Should I plan the next trip or stay at home because of commitment, money or because of the scary possibilities? Never the less, the once wide open window of traveling innominately narrowed to a crack. You may find yourself triple thinking your choices. It is wise to be thoughtful, aware and cautious but it is more important not to limit yourself and your possibilities. All of us grow up a little and get bogged down with work, family, commitment that is when one should step out of his or her comfort zone and travel, take that vacation, go back to school, get connected in your community, start that new business, start working out, visit a family member, take up a new or old hobby, call an old friend or make a new one, try a new board sport or master your old one, trust yourself a little more, just fuel and feel the fire within. You have to make it happen. It is so important to plan for tomorrow but it is vital to live for today. I can always think of ten reasons I should stay home, but I still only need just one to make me go, my love of surfing. Whether you surf professionally or locally we all feed on that ultimate feeling that comes along with challenging yourself in uncharted territory and living up to your own personal potential. We enjoy the superior rush of tapping in on the unknown. Board sports embrace and embody the idea you can not control everything, you must adapt and accept change to excel. We are better and stronger for it and even if it is only for a moment, to just taste the salt on your lips, feel the sun on your skin, enjoy the push of the wave and feel the pull from your center of gravity to enjoy the bliss of that sling shot effect feeling you get when you overcome and beat out fear, just by challenging your inner athlete and feeling the pure thrill of the wave or pushing it in slightly bigger conditions. Even if you do not surf and we have all captured the feeling that comes along with succeeding in whatever it is we love, excelling in your career, taking up a new sport, finishing college, starting a family, going for a career change or learning a new skill, walking up to your first beautiful man or woman, playing in a championship game, or simply taking an educated risk. The courageous few experience the fulfillment that comes along with harnessing that kind of energy. We have the freedom to choose our passion, work at it and run with it, we have the freedom to win or lose, fail or succeed, we can share and adapt, overcome and learn. That is what makes us so strong and attractive as a people, as a nation.

September 11th is still a surreal period in my lifetime and I can truly say my heart wept for my country that day and for many days after. Some of us spend our whole lives using our gifts, talents and education to stay positive, work hard, enjoy and give back; we will never understand from where that kind of hatred and evil comes. Regardless, we have learned throughout history, that kind of evil survives and will unfortunately exist. One vital fact still prevails, life will go on with you or without you. You can choose how you handle it. It is alright to cry or be sad for awhile, but it is more important to draw strength and awareness from a negative situation. I always question everything, everything. It is so important to ask yourself why. I may not ever be able to answer why something so evil and pointless could touch so many. I am positive about the fact, millions of acts of kindness counter-acted that sad event in American History. Our eyes as a nation were opened and we really started to understand how connected the world really is, how and why other countries view the United States the way they do. Some were already aware, but it really forced others to get interested in history, geography, politics and world events and issues. We were forced to remember knowledge is power and quickly became educated. We all stood up to ask, why and how could this happen, what can I do, where can I help, what is happening in my community, what is important to me personally, what will I be remembered for in this life, can I make a difference, is my life and family in check, how can I celebrate life more, how can I enrich others, do I live to the fullest? Everyone has different questions and answers. But one issue stands out to me the most upon reflection, as if the loss of life and destruction was not enough to endure, THE ATTACK WAS MUCH MORE DIABOLICAL THAN THAT, MUCH MORE EVIL IN ITS INTENT, IT WAS TO STRIKE AGAINST WHAT MANY FEAR MOST, THE AMERICAN PSYCHE. IT WAS TO MAKE US ALL THINK TWICE ABOUT OUR CHOICES, MAKE US FRIGHTENED OF LIFE AND ITS POSSIBILITIES, TO TRY AND TAKE AWAY OUR STRENGTH, OUR BEAUTY, OUR WILL, OUR DESIRE, OUR RIGHTS, OUR CHOICE, OUR FREEDOM....

Another tragedy was right when the rest of the mainstream world was finally getting educated, aware and really letting go of a long time stigma and started figuring out the surfer was really on to something and living the sweet life, constantly challenging the inner athlete, preserving youth, traveling, a cleaner living, experience seeking, truly testing one's self and strength, quality instead of quantity. It was a long time coming, a giant leap for the sport and industry. Then something like September 11th happens and one questions everything. Would all these baby steps of progress be shadowed by doubt and bring us back to square one? I think not. I still continue to draw comfort and strength from being a surfer and still learn from the core community.

You see, the surfer is the one true athlete to embrace the idea that you can not control everything around you and thrives from it. I have always believed the essence of surfing,

6 to 60, is just getting out each and every day to enjoy all of Mother Nature in all her glory and wrath, for whatever it is worth. Where many can not, the surfer has relished in chance and change. It has always been about living verses existing. Plus, the sport of surfing is built on the idea of testing ones limits and equipment, using experience and knowledge of the ocean, plus competing against the best of the best on the planet to reach his or her pinnacle. Surfing's foundation is strengthened from embracing other countries, cultures and creeds, opening their eyes, minds and hearts, appreciating and learning from each other's differences, styles and skill. So few sports really compete against the best of what the WORLD has to offer. It IS the ultimate challenge, and that is why so few are talented, focused enough and brave enough to actually take it to the next level. Whether you do it in front of a beach full of people, in front of your friends, for a couple of nameless strangers or all by yourself for just the sheer pleasure that comes with catching some air, pulling off a floater, getting barreled or sticking a sick move, do it for all it is worth, make it yours.

We have all wrestled with that important question, should I stay or should I go? We have all worked the high road of working, taking care of ours, doing the right thing, keeping up with responsibility and you should, it builds character and helps you enjoy the sweetness of life....but it only takes a second, there were a bunch of people doing the right thing innocently sitting at their desks or just doing their job using their gifts, education, and talents to be positive, work and contribute, and it was snatched up in what feels like a moment. This to me does not mean you should just go do whatever, no quite the contrary, be very deliberate. But do not deny your heart the things it beats hard in doing...bask in the glory of what makes this precious life worth living...because nothing in this life is guaranteed, it could be your last session. We will never be able to understand evil or be able to control everyone and everything all the time...but it is still YOUR choice. I still try and believe in the greater good of people. I say, just live a little, a little smarter but enjoy life's journey, but you decide what is important to you, you decide what your legacy will be...

It is plain and simple, whether it is on wax or wheels, or what ever your passion may be...do it everyday like it is your last chance ever, do it for all it is worth, feel every muscle in your body, make it your own, sing your own song, take that trip, dance like no one is watching, stroke your passion, charge those big waves or just get wet but MAKE IT COUNT because life is ONE shot at ONE perfect, glassy, everlasting wave, it is still your choice how you ride it in......

Words by: Dawn K. Lastovica

Some poetry from Dawn.